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How To: Hardwire AUX input on Harley-Davidson stereo

Always wanted to have a clean way of wiring your iPhone, iPod, or GPS device? Us too! We recently put together this “How To” while doing this to our in-house Road Glide. Takes about an hour and is pretty easy, as long as you are comfortable with a soldering iron.

Special shout out to “hd-dude” from CVOHarley.com. These instructions are merely a follow-up to the research he had already done. Also, the photos were taken after our own install. You will notice that the cable is already mounted in all of the photos.

**Please proceed with caution, these are undocumented instructions obtained from multiple sources and is a hack to your stereo. You can permanently damage your stereo if you are not careful. Iron Aces Speed Shop will not be held responsible for any damage caused by this modification. Proceed at your own risk. If you at all uncomfortable with this process, I would suggest you send your unit to http://www.ironcrossaudio.com/. They can do the install for you at a nominal fee.

You will need the following items…

  • 3.5mm stereo headphone jack extension cable ($0.73 cents from Monoprice!)
  • Rubber Grommet – Size depends on cable you buy
  • Zip Tie
  • Zip Tie Anchor

Tools Used:

  • Soldering Iron
  • Multimeter (Not necessary, but helpful)
  • T8 Torx Bit
  • T25 Torx Bit
  • Small Flathead Screwdriver
  • Exacto Knife
  • Drill & Bit

Step 1:
Remove radio from mounting cradle. (To make it easier to slide the radio out of the mounting cradle, rub a little bit of dishwasher soap on both sides of the water seal. This will allow the radio to slide out much easier without possibly damaging the seal.)

aux-port-01

Step 2:
If equipped, also remove the CB and XM module.

aux-port-02

Step 3:
Flip seal over faceplate to access the plastic tabs.

aux-port-03

Step 4:
Using a small screwdriver, remove faceplate from radio by gently prying the six plastic tabs around faceplate. One on each side, two on the top and two on the bottom.

aux-port-04

Step 5:
Make sure the orange rubber seal (the one that seals the front AUX input jack) remains within the faceplate.

aux-port-05

Step 6:
Remove top plate by unscrewing the two T8 Torx screws located on the front rim and remove the two T25 Torx screws on the back of the radio.

aux-port-06a

aux-port-06b

Step 7:
Pick a location on the back of the radio to drill a hole to run your AUX audio cable through. Use the appropriate size drill pit for the size of audio extension cable you purchased.

I picked the location you see here, because I will never use the additional Harley modules. If you plan to upgrade your stereo, you may want to drill a hole in the main chassis.

Step 8:
Place the correct grommet in the hole and run the AUX audio cable through it.

aux-port-07

Step 9:
Route the cable to the left of the radio to exit near the front AUX input.

aux-port-09

Step 10:
Now solder the appropriate leads to the inboard connections. Different cables will possibly have different color leads. Test leads with a multimeter to determine the appropriate lead.

aux-port-10

Step 11:
Anchor the cable inside the radio with a single zip tie and anchor.

aux-port-11


ATTENTION: For the next step, there are two possible routes to take, 12A or 12B. Please read both options carefully before you proceed.


Step 12A:

In order for the radio to stop at the AUX input position without anything plugged into the front port, you will need to cut the tracer on the circuit board. Using a sharp Exacto knife, cut into the board across the tracer. Before you put the radio back together, put the faceplate back on and plug the stereo back into the radio harness to test that you can select the AUX position without anything plugged in to the front AUX jack. If you can’t, then you have not cut the tracer. This took me a few tries.

Also, don’t worry about cutting the tracer, your front AUX input port will still work.

UPDATE: As Bill Thomas pointed out in the comments below… The circuit board is multilayered, so be extra careful to not cut too deep, otherwise the left speaker connection could be damaged.

aux-port-12

Here is a closer view of the tracer you will need to cut.

aux-port-12-zoom

And a closer view of after the cut.

aux-port-12-zoom-alt

Step 12B:
UPDATE #2: ALTERNATE SOLUTION:
Steve Kissinger (Comment below) was gracious enough to supply us with an alternative solution to cutting the tracer on the circuit board. This solution involves removing one of the component blocks from the circuit board, thus providing the same outcome as cutting the tracer circuit. These instructions are supplied by www.hdbomm.com. I have personally not verified this solution, so proceed at your own risk!

“Remove the component circled in WHITE. Using a small pair of needle nose pliers will help in the removal process. Heat one end of the component, the heat will transfer thru the component and heat up the solder on the other end. Pull the component up and away from the circuit board when the solder has melted.” ~ via hdbomm.com

aux-port-12b

Step 13:
Place the top plate back on the radio, snap the face back on the radio, flip radio seal back over body and install radio back into fairing.

Done! Not so bad huh?!?

88 thoughts on “How To: Hardwire AUX input on Harley-Davidson stereo”

  1. Roy Hoffman says:

    Chris – This was just what I was looking for, However getting to the tracer that I needed to cut, I may not have understood this directly and cut to much. The AUX is on the radio, however no sound works. Do you know of anything I am able ot do?

    Thanks – Roy

    1. Chris Trausch says:

      Roy,

      My apologies, I JUST now saw this post. Our alert system must not have been working properly. Hopefully you got everything worked out. If not, give me a call at 704-255-1780 ext. 1, and hopefully I can help you out.

  2. Jonathan Witt says:

    Chris- Thanks for posting this walk-through. I have yet to perform the mod, but what functionality does the “trace” offer normally? Will the front AUX port still work after this mod?

    Thanks again!

    Jonathan

    1. Chris Trausch says:

      The trace is simply a circuit that allows the radio to switch to the AUX input when a 3.5mm audio cable is inserted into the jack. You will notice that you can only select the AUX input when you have a cable plugged into this jack. The AUX input will still work even after cutting this trace.

  3. Charlton says:

    Chris,
    Thanks for this write-up! I followed the instructions and am very satisfied with the end product. I will mention to others who may read this that different brands of extension cables have different color coding and even wire type. The one I bought locally used red, green and blue and the wire strands were twisted in with some fiber material (no plastic insulation). The point is you may have to use a bit of trial and error if you use a different brand of cable.

  4. Jim Lupo says:

    Will the new rear jack still work with out cutting the trace. Thanks, Jim

    1. Chris Trausch says:

      Only if you also have a cable plugged into the front AUX input. Cutting the tracer allows you to select the AUX input mode without having anything plugged into the front input. The tracer circuit acts like a switch… When a cable is plugged into the front input, this enables the AUX input to be selected from the source menu.

  5. Rob Hoover says:

    I cannot find the Tracer. I would like to send a picture if possible.

    1. Chris Trausch says:

      I just sent you an email…

  6. Rob Hoover says:

    Worked like a charm! Many thanks to Chris for his instructions and immediate replies to my questions. Follow his instructions and you will be done in about an hour.

  7. George O'Brien says:

    Chris,

    Thanks for this. Have you considered a 3.5 mm male end and not a female?

    Thanks,

    George

    1. Chris Trausch says:

      Male or Female will work just fine. We chose to use a female connector since most items require a female connection, just like the front input on the stock stereo.

  8. Steve Wolfangel says:

    Chris,
    Wired everything as described, and cut the tracer. I’ve lost my left channel. I’ve checked my solder points, pulled everything out, and put it back in. Nothing. The left channel still works with the radio, but not with the new jack, and not with the jack on the front of the radio. Suggestions?

    1. Chris Trausch says:

      Steve,

      I would do a continuity check on the left channel wire to make sure it is not coming into contact with anything around it. Also, check that left channel under the circuit board to make sure when you soldered, it didn’t melt the solder on the board, thus causing a bad connection. This is generally where the problem is.

      Chris

  9. Steve Wolfangel says:

    Chris,
    Took the radio to an electronics shop. Continuity check was all good. He removed my solder points, wires, and the auxillary jack, cleaned the board surface, then re-mounted everything. Nothing. He couldn’t see anything unusual.

    1. Chris Trausch says:

      Steve,

      I am at a loss of what it could potentially be. When you cut the tracer, you didn’t happen to knock one of the transistors off the board did you? (The little square things next to where you cut the tracer… may be something else, but for now, lets call them “transistors”) It might be interesting to see what would happen if you put a jumper connecting the tracer back together to see if that solves the problem.

  10. Steve Wolfangel says:

    No, I didn’t touch the transistors. It looks like something shorted out. I may have applied too much solder, and caused a bridge between the ground and left channel, or too much heat and damaged the board.

    1. Chris Trausch says:

      hmmm… possibly. You might want to get in touch with the folks at http://www.ironcrossaudio.com/ They might be able to trace down the issue and get you fixed up.

  11. Robert Korn says:

    I was wondering if u could send me a picture of the tracer circuit. Think i might try this myself but I wanna get a better look at it. Thanks for your time.

    1. Chris Trausch says:

      Robert, The only close up picture I have is the one above, just above step 13.

  12. Kevin Elders says:

    Thanks Chris for the instructions. I did this mod this weekend in about 2.5hrs. The only thing I would add to you tool list is…..One BIG FREAKING MAGNIFYING GLASS. The wire and soldiering points are tiny. 🙂

    1. Chris Trausch says:

      HA! That that area is a little small. Enjoy!

  13. Kevin Elders says:

    I now have a “dual” setup. I have the Supplemental Power Point wire hardwired with my Garmin Nuvi 765T power chord. The Aux cable goes in to the back aux port I just did. I then spliced the iSimple IS75 Polywire iPhone/iPod Hardwire into the supplemental power point cable. The charging cable for the iPhone is routed to my tour pac. The aux cable for the iPhone is routed the opposite direction and plugs in to the front aux port on the radio. I can get the prompts from my gps while listening to the tunes from the iPhone which is tucked away and out of site in the tour pac.

  14. Rob Rez says:

    Thanks for the pictures and process.

    This was great an so easy! I was a little nervous when I saw how small everything was, but I followed the steps and had zero problems.

    SInce I had the fairing opened up to install the HD NIM, I couldn’t leave the 1/8 inch patch cable plugged into the auxiliary port on the stereo face plate…..When I found your solution, I jumped right in….

    The easiest, “up to your elbows in wire” modification you do to.

    One trip to Radio Shack and a little pratice soldering spliced wire and anyone with reasonable intelligence can do this mod.

  15. Jeffrey Comeau says:

    So I just cut along the green board with knife to kill aux

    1. Chris Trausch says:

      Yep. That’s it.

  16. Jeff says:

    I did everything the instructions said to do and I am also having trouble with the left speaker, I get sound out of it but only about half of what the right speaker is putting out.
    It was a very easy thing to do, Just that one problem, I even took everything back out and check and re-connected everything just to double check myself…

    1. Chris Trausch says:

      Jeff,

      We have had a couple people experiencing this problem. However, I don’t know the solution. I would just triple check that you don’t have any stray wires hanging out of your solder joints. They could be grounded out on the stereo chassis or other areas. Make sure all of your connections on the back of the stereo are good and tight. Also make sure the faceplate is seated properly on the front of the stereo. Also, make sure your tracer cut is good and clean. Let me know what you find out.

      Thanks,
      Chris

  17. Glenn Carey says:

    In step 6, If you have the GPS module installed, it will need to be removed by removing the two T8 screws in the upper right and lower left corners of the GPS module BEFORE the top plate will come loose. slide the GPS module out towards the back of the unit and the top plate can then be removed.

  18. Troy says:

    Just finished with this mod today. It was more out of necessity than anything else. The aux. input on the front of my H/K head unit went bad so this was the cheapest fix that I could find. I got the guy at the stereo shop that did my truck to do the soldering for me because I have never done it before. He said the instructions were great and made the job very easy. It did take me three tries to cut the trace so it is good advise to check this before you put things back together. everything now works great and I am very happy, Thanks for the write up on this Chris.

  19. dave says:

    do you have a mod for the older radio? before this one.. i have a 2005 uceg

    1. Chris Trausch says:

      Dave,

      Sorry, but I do not have any information on the older radios. I would do some searching around on the forums to see if you can come up with anything.

      Let me know if you find anything.

      Thanks,
      Chris

  20. Kyle Livingston says:

    Awesome write up Chris! Great pictures and explanation. I ended up running two outputs out the back. I runs up my fairing into the bottom of my windshield bags. (For quick access when I want to use pandora on my phone) and the other goes to my saddlbeag where I keep my ipod. Everything works very well and took about an hr! Thank you!

    -Kyle.

    1. Chris Trausch says:

      You got it! Thanks Kyle

  21. Bill Thomas says:

    The issue with low sound after cutting the trace is:

    The cut was done too deep and the circuit board is multilayered. Thus it cut through the left speaker connection on the board. Be careful NOT to cut to deep.

    Hope this helps

    1. Chris Trausch says:

      Thanks Bill. I updated our instructions with this warning. Thanks for sharing!

  22. Randy says:

    ok Bill, so I cut too deep and now the left channel isn’t working. I’m guessing the fix is a new head unit.

  23. Randy says:

    Randy –
    The fix is just swapping a new circuit board, or if your not that tech savvy, then yes a new head unit.

  24. Will says:

    Randy,
    It took more than two cuts to get AUX to show on the head unit. When AUX did show on the head unit I was pretty stoked. The iPhone works–I don’t get any sound from the left channel (I’m afraid I may have cut too deep, but see below), but the Tranzit does not play FM. Yes, the phone is paired and iTunes is off but no FM. Strangely enough, the speaker pops every +/- on the Tranzit tuner, but no music. Also, when I disconnect the male input from the AUX on the back of the HK unit and touch it to the metal part of the female receiver, I get full stereo. I also get full stereo when the male input is pulled 2/3 of the way out of the front AUX unit.
    Any ideas? I’d prefer not to buy another head unit…

    1. Chris Trausch says:

      Randy,

      I think you are ok… however, our experience has been that some jacks don’t line up internally together. Since you can pull the jack 2/3 and get full stereo, I feel that the issue is in-fact the alignment. Those rings on the male end and inside the female jack sometimes don’t align 100%. I don’t know the specific cause of why this happens, I guess just different manufacturers have different tolerances. What I would suggest is to try using an extension in-between the two connections. This might solve the problem with the internal alignment. Let me know if that solves the problem.

      Thanks,
      Chris

  25. Ron says:

    I have installed the input on my fltru. I used my phone for music and it works great. However when I plug my phone charger into the the power outlet on the bike, my left channel looses some volume. If I plug into ac outlet it works fine. Plugged in cable to front and checked continuity on both ends and no issues. also tried another phone same issue. Any ideas?

    1. Chris Trausch says:

      Ron,

      Check this forum post and see if that helps…

      http://www.ipadforums.net/ipad-general-discussions/24807-no-audio-anymore-during-charges.html

      Chris

  26. Tim Carey says:

    Solution for the people that cut to deep. Can’t we just find 2 points to solder together to jumper the part they cut?

  27. Randy says:

    Could you just use a 1/8″ dust plug to trick the head unit? or is it relying on on “noise” from the metal contacts being slid into place?

    If a dust plug would work I think people would be having better luck doing this 🙂

    http://www.amazon.com/12pcs-Proof-iPhone-Speaker-Plugy/dp/B0080433BG/ref=pd_sim_ac_1

    1. Chris Trausch says:

      We have had a few customers just cut off the end of a 3.5mm audio cable and use it like a plug. I believe the input uses the metal contacts to complete the circuit to allow the stereo to select the AUX mode. I do not believe it is a mechanical switch in which a product that you linked to would work. But really, either of these options nullifies the original intent to create a super clean install with nothing protruding from the front of the stereo. If you try this and it does work, please let us know!

  28. david says:

    I JUST DID THE MOD , INSTED OF CUTTING THE BOARD I REMOVED THE #2 BLOCK FROM YOUR CUT IT WORKS GREAT, THIS MIGHT BE A SOLUTION FOR CUTTING TO DEEP . I TOOK A SMALL PICK PUT ON THE BLOCK AND APPLIED HEAT MELTED THE SOULDER CAME RIGHT OFF E MAIL WITH ANY QUESTIONS THANKS!

  29. Tim says:

    david, so if I understand you right you took off the black resistor that is 2nd to the left from the cut line?

  30. david says:

    yes tim that is correct second to left does same thing as cutting board email @ dwmelson@hotmail.com

    1. Chris Trausch says:

      David, can you mark on our photo which block you are referring to? I just want to make sure there is no confusion. Thanks!

  31. Tony says:

    I’m I able to connect an AUX plug to my 96 HD with the standard AM-FM radio cassette? There’s no plug on the front of the radio.
    Thanks,
    Tony

    1. Chris Trausch says:

      Tony, I don’t think it would work. We have only done this with the newer style radios.

  32. JF says:

    Thank you Chris for all the detail steps how to.
    My question is, which bluetooth receiver/transmitter you use? There are so many and I cant find something that will turn off automatically once I turn off the bike..or will have to press buttom to pair with my phone everytime..thanks

    1. Chris Trausch says:

      Take a look at our TransIt BLU. It works great!

      You can purchase them on our store at this link.

  33. David says:

    Instead of cutting the tracer wire for the front aux, can I just cut the end of another male jack flush and push it into the front aux slot for the radio to stop at. Kind of like a blank metal plug to compete the circuit??

    1. Chris Trausch says:

      I have not tried it, but others have recommended that solution as well. Let us know what you find out!

  34. Steve Kissinger says:

    There is a pic of the “block” that needs to be removed instead of cutting the trace on “www.hdbomm.com”. Scroll down to almost the bottom of their page to the Rear Aux Jack there is instructions for 2 different stereos on there.

    1. Chris Trausch says:

      Steve, This is great! Thanks for the tip. I will make a side note in the instructions above.

    2. Chris Trausch says:

      Steve, I just updated our instructions to provide this alternative solution. Thanks again for the tip!

  35. Corey Strong says:

    I did this mod and the sound works great but I was wondering if anyone else has the issue that I am seeing.

    sometimes when I start the bike it will switch itself to aux when I was listening to FM before I shut it off.

    1. Chris Trausch says:

      Corey, I have not heard of this problem before. I will keep my ears open though and report back if we do.

  36. Buckeye says:

    This is an awesome wright up. Did it over the weekend and it works perfectly. The only thing I used different is a waterproof bluetooth made by Fusion check it out on ebay.

    1. Chris Trausch says:

      Thanks for the recommendation on the Fusion module. We will taker a look at it. Looks like it is a great solution for those that don’t need the FM modulation.

  37. Jeff Feightner says:

    Your instructions were spot on and easy to follow.
    I considered using a bluetooth receiver, but it didn’t make much sense, as I also wired in a (switched) USB adapter to keep my phone topped up.

    Thanks Mr. Trausch and Mr. Kissinger for making this information available.

  38. Jeff Rienzi says:

    Hey Chris, I was looking through the internet and stumbled across this site. I recently purchased a used Harley Davidson H/K radio to replace the older unit in my ’04 Harley Davidson. The person I purchased the radio from had broken off a pin in the factory AUX jack. I took the radio apart and removed all the broken pieces to the AUX jack. This post looks like it would be a good fix to repair the broken AUX jack but I don’t quite understand the advantage of having the AUX jack run out the back. I am not too savvy on radio functions so would you please enlighten me on the benefits of running the jack in this manner? Thanks for your time! I look forward to receiving your email! Jeff

    1. Chris Trausch says:

      Jeff, the biggest reason is simply for looks. It is a much cleaner install without an audio cable poking out of the front of the radio. Also if you install a Bluetooth module, it is easy to run the audio input to the back of the stereo vs. the front… again, it all goes back to looks and having a clean install. Hope that helps!

  39. 1WiLd1WiLdChiLd says:

    Just installed Zumo 665 and the mod on the radio for the aux jack. All wasn’t well! All works well! Thanks!

  40. Paul M says:

    Chris,
    I just installed a fairing mount Garmin Zumo 665 on my 2011 Ultra Classic. Thanks for all of the great information. I modified my radio per your instructions in option #1 an everything is perfect! No issues, everything works the way it is supposed to without any wires hanging around. A little bit for Jeff and his question, if your install is going to be permanent, why not do away with a wire you have no need to unplug.

  41. Paul Williams says:

    Hi did you use the monoprice jack in the illustrated aux wire hookup Red Yellow White?

    Thanks
    Paul

    1. Chris Trausch says:

      Yes, I did use the Monoprice jack in these photos.

  42. Steve says:

    Chris
    I know this thread is somewhat dated but I am looking for your assistance. I recently added the auxiliary plug to the back of my HK radio (2013 Ultra Classic Limited). This is the second HK radio I have done. The first I used the “cut the circuit board method”. Took a couple of try’s but it worked fine. This time I removed the middle capacitor…the one Hdboom describes circled in red. The AUX showed on the display, but I can only get the left side speakers to work. When I plug in th the front, factory auxiliary plug everything works fine. My question….I don’t know if by removing this one capacitor is the fix….can I now go ahead and cut the circuit board to try and fix or complete “fooling” the front plug in to thinking something is plugged in.
    Thanks
    Steve

    1. Chris Trausch says:

      Hey Steve, From my understanding, it is one or the other. You shouldn’t need to do both. When you removed the capacitor, did you un-solder it? If so, maybe try re-solder it back in and see if that fixes the problem and gets you back to blank slate. Again, I have not personally verified the solution HDboom describes. I would reach out to them and see what they have to say.

  43. Steve says:

    Chris
    I should of asked this on my previous post. In the photo showing the circuit the cut it shows a short white line across the section of board connected to the row of capacitors. When the actual cut is shown it looks like it extends out to the edge of the board. Is it necessary to cut right out to the edge or just that little section.
    Thanks Steve

    1. Chris Trausch says:

      It isn’t necessary to cut to the edge. Just make sure you cut the tracers. I didn’t have a steady hand that day, so my cut was a little messy, ha!

  44. John says:

    Hello Chris, I have a question maybe you have heard this problem ? I did the mod however, I used two female RCA jacks so I can hook it to the Bluetooth unit all this works great and sounds good, however, I lost my radio to pure static. I even un-wired the Bluetooth because I thought it was giving off interference but no. I can’t see anything which I did that would cause this, unless the antenna wire broke. Would something be grounded an cause this?

    Thanks John

    1. Chris Trausch says:

      John, did you leave the antenna connected to the stereo or route it thru the Bluetooth module? Sounds like the antenna is just disconnected. I don’t know of any grounding issue that would cause this.

  45. John says:

    Chris no everything was connected, however, I went and did a reset on the radio and everything works perfect! I’m getting some interference when using the Bluetooth so I need to trouble shoot that. When the bike is not running she sounds great.

    John

  46. Zak Klein says:

    Thank you so much for this posting! I was tired of my wife strangling me with the Aux Cord while riding our 2012 Road Glide.

    Procedure went perfectly.
    I removed the component from the board rather than trying to cut with Exacto knife and it worked perfectly. I simply grasped it gently with small needle nose pliers and applied heat to the pliers until it transferred to the component and it came right off.

    I used the Fusion Marine BT (Fusion MS-BT100) without the FM Modulator and it works and sounds great.

    Once again thank you for the excellently detailed outline!

    Zak Klein – Columbus, Ohio

    1. Chris Trausch says:

      Zak, Glad to hear you had success with removing the component block. Glad to hear about the Fusion Marine BT module. We are looking into adding these to our catalog. Currently we offer the iSimple TranzIt BLU Bluetooth Audio Module, which is nice for people that do not want to add the AUX connection. It functions as an FM modulator so users can go inline with their antenna.

      Thanks again for your comment and ride safe!
      Chris

  47. eric says:

    Salut chris J’ai un problème avec un Radio casette Harley mon. Volume capotes il monte et d’Essen tout temps quand je roule avec mon bike aurais tu une solution a me donner svp merci il doit i avoir un fille a couper pour réglée ce problème la

  48. todd says:

    rockford fosgate makes a cool blue tooth adapter plugs into cig lighter and aux port shuts off when bike is off $50

  49. Thom says:

    Above David ask on April 9, 2014 at 5:06 pm about putting a blank in. However, if you do that you could no longer us the external facing jack for a Bluetooth receiver, etc.

  50. Ron Jacques says:

    Chris
    I have a 2013 Ultra Classic
    Went out yesterday and the AUX function will not appear or function on the stock set up.
    1 month out of warranty and I’m told $350 for reman radio 1 hour install
    Do you have any thoughts on repair or problem?
    Thank you very much
    Ron

  51. Nice one , Where can i get this?

  52. Giovanni says:

    Thanks for the write up, worked great, I did find that my radio atleast the left and right channels were the opposite of what you posted.

  53. Daryl Cook says:

    Could you cut the cord off of the end of an AUX cable, leaving enough to grab onto, and use that to plug into the front AUX input to complete the tracer switch? You could tell people it’s a wireless input. Haha. You could plug it in to select the rear input, but be able to grab it and pull it out if you wanted to plug something else into the radio.?

    Thanks.

    1. Chris Trausch says:

      To my knowledge, yes this can be done. It achieves the same result as cutting the tracer.

  54. Billy Jackson says:

    For anyone that is interested, I have successfully wired a Bluetooth dongle in the same manner. Essentially, I turned my non-Bluetooth OEM Harley radio into a Bluetooth receiver for about $30. I bought a Milennia MIL BTREC Bluetooth receiver with RCA jacks and cut the RCA jacks off. I spliced the ground from each RCA jack together and soldered it to the ground post on the radio 3.5mm jack. I soldered the right (red) signal wire to the right channel post on the 3.5mm jack and I soldered the left (white) signal wire to the left channel post on the 3.5mm jack. I mounted the Bluetooth dongle on the inside of the radio with double sided tape and drilled a hole in the back removable cover to run the dongle power wires through. I connected the positive wire to the remote wire on the radio so the dongle is not on unless the radio is. The ground can be connected to the frame or the ground wire on the radio. I do not have pics of the install but if anyone needs to see it, I can pull it back apart next week and snap some.

  55. Billy Jackson says:

    Also, I opted to remove the block from the circuit board instead of making the cut on the board. It is very easy to remove that block. Just take a small flat screwdriver and give it a little nudge and it pops right off.

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